WFO Concepts, Auborn CA
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WFO Projects
'00 Dakota
'03 Chevy HD
'75 CJ-6
'04 Nissan Titan
'05 Ford Superduty
'02 Dodge
'01 Toyota
'93 Chevy
'46 Jeep
'89 Trooper


 

 

Continued...

The next order of business in the front, was the steering and track bar. Due to the fact that the 2005 Fords have a new steering design, we decided to retain the factory draglink setup. It was already somewhat of a crossover design. However, it was obvious we would need a drop pitman arm and a drop track-bar bracket. I wasn’t able to find anyone making a pitman arm yet, so we were forced to machine our own. After 8 hours in the machine shop, we were finally done!

The new draglink was built from 1.5”x.219 wall DOM tubing. The factory end was retained down on the axle, while a Chevy Double Pivot end was used at the pitman arm. The draglink was mandrel bent at each end to keep each rod end from binding though-out the suspension travel.

With the draglink built, it was time to build the track bar. Of course it is very important that the track bar is parallel with the draglink. This will eliminate any bump-steer in the vehicle. In order to achieve this, either the upper mount needed to be dropped, or the lower mount raised. We decided to retain the upper mount, and modify the mount on the axle.

Once again, Phil headed to the machine shop. The first thing he did is cut down special spacers and bushings, in order to run a 3/4 heim on the original upper mount. Without dropping the upper mount, he would need to raise the lower mount. He decided to make a raised clevice that mounted into the original track bar boss. He started with a billit chunk of 4340 Chromoly steel. 6 hours later, Phil emerged victorious from his pile of chips. The new clevice bolted directly into the location of the factory mount. It was also spot welded for extra strength. To finish up the front, new sway bar links were built from 1” Dom to accept the factory sway bar in the factory location.

It was now time to move to the back. Phil had already blown off all of the factory mounts on the frame. He simply cut the heads off the rivots with the plasma cutter. He was able to punch the rivots out and save all of the old brackets. All leaf spring mounts and overload mounts were removed. The frame was now perfectly bare, and ready to go. He pulled the cardboard out again, and began to design the upper shock tower mounts. We decided to utilize the existing holes and bracket locations that were already in the frame. The hole locations were transferred onto cardboard from the back side. Once these templates were done, Phil handed them over to Beau. Beau transferred them into the computer in order be cut out with the waterjet.

At the same time, all mounting brackets for the axle, links, and track bar were designed and transferred into the computer. The rear brackets were also cut from 1/4” plate. While Beau went and cut out the brackets, Phil started making the rear links. Both the main link and the upper link were built from 2”x.250 wall DOM tubing. Like the front, the upper link was adjustable, in order to dial in the pinion angle. At the axle end of the links, 1 1/4 heims were used. At the frame end, a poly bushing was used. On the rear track bar, a poly bushing was also used up top, along with a 3/4” heim down low. The bushings help quiet down any road noise that is transferred up the link. While designing the rear track bar, Phil put a bend in his tubing, and dropped it down to leave a spot for him to run his exhaust.

When Beau came back with the brackets, Phil bent up some 1.5x.120 wall tubing for the upper shock mounts. He attached the lower shock tabs, and built a track bar from 1.5x.250 DOM. At the same time, new sway bar mounts were built to accept 3/4 heims at each end.

It was finally time to set the truck on the ground and see if we ordered the correct spring rates. The 39.5”x13.50x20” Super Swamper Iroc radials looked great on our 20 Weld wheels. We bolted the tires on and dropped the lift. Of course, we didn’t like the spring rates. After 3 different sets of springs, we finally dialed in the suspension to the proper pre-load and desired height. After installing a few new stainless steel brake lines, it was time for the test drive.

Knowing that it would not be our final driveline, we bolted the stock 2 piece driveline back in. It worked well enough for us to take it on a test drive. At first the truck seemed too soft and spungy. Then we realized that we didn’t have any nitrogen in the shocks. Whoops! That’s what happens when you get too excited. With the shocks charged, the truck drove and handled great! It was truly a 1 finger down the road truck.

The truck was pulled back into the shop, and measurements were taken for the drivelines. We decided to make a one piece 1350 CV rear, and a high angle BAMF 42degree CV front. We called up Tom Woods Custom Driveline and got our shafts on order. As soon as that was taken care of, Phil stripped the truck completely down. All parts were finish welded, sandblasted, and prepped for coating. The axles were cleaned up and painted with a semi-flat black, while the links were powder coated with a grey Dupont Powder. The next day was Phil’s Christmas. He unwrapped all of the parts and started putting it back together. The following day, as Phil buttoned up the brake lines and e-brake cables, the drivelines showed up.

The rear 1350 CV bolted right in with a few pinion adjustments in the rear. The front took a little more work. The BAMF CV from Tom Woods had plenty of angle, but it had a larger pilot than the stock Ford CV. Phil took the flange off the t-case, and turned a new pilot on the lathe. He also removed the original 1350 yoke from the axle. He replaced it with a “tall” 1350 yoke from WFO. Not only did this eliminate the strap style yoke, but it also allowed the u-joint to get more angle at the yoke. Phil still had to clearance the yoke in order for the driveline to spin free throughout the entire motion of the suspension.

With the drivelines in, Phil was ready for those “Smokies” in front of the movie theater. Phil has been “on the pipe” ever since it rolled out of the shop. In the last 2 months, he as put 4000 miles on it! Everything seems to drive perfect!


 


   
 

 

 
   
 
     
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